Heinrich L. Thäter GmbH handmade shaving brushes since 1913
Heinrich L. Thäter GmbH                                                  handmade shaving brushes                                                                                                                                         since 1913


We only use precious materials  for our brush handles


Bruyere / Baumheide (Erica arborea)
The bulbous roots have been used for production since the beginning of the 19th century, initially in France
of tobacco pipes. To do this, you harvest the tubers, which are about the size of a football ball at the age of 30 to 60, and cook them several times
Hours in copper kettles; they then have to dry for several months before they are processed. The wood is light to reddish brown, often beautifully grained and very hard and heat-resistant due to mineral deposits.

Cocobolo (Dalbergia retusa, D. tucurensis)
Cocobolo wood is imported in small quantities from Central America to Europe. The wood is very hard and dense.
The heartwood is orange-red to dark brown and has black veins. Cocobolo is one of the most sought after
Rosewood. It is a pronounced luxury wood for knife handles, small turning and wind instruments. It is also valued in sculpture.

Ebony black and white (Diospyros embryopteris)
Ebony black and white is a real ebony and is also called Royal White Ebony. Like Makassar, it is one of the colored ones
Ebony and is only much rarer and more expensive than this. It has been in great demand for its beauty and rarity for centuries and was reserved for the kings and rulers of the countries of origin. It is offered very rarely and comes from Laos and Burma.

Grenadilla (Dalbergia melonoxylon)
Grenadilla wood is a deep dark brown to almost black hardwood of the rosewood family with a fine black-violet pattern.
With a density of 1400 kg / m3, grenadilla is one of the heaviest woods ever. The dark heartwood is of a luminous
surrounded by a yellow, rather thin layer of sapwood, the commonly used part of the tree is the heartwood. It is very fine and
homogeneously structured and feels smooth and slightly oily when touched. Grenadilla is preferred for instrument making.
Greenheart (Demerara)
Green heart wood can be of very different colors. There are variations from yellow-green, light and dark olive or yellowish and dark brown to black. The grain of the wood is usually straight or alternating. The structure is fine and even. Greenhearted wood is a very hard, heavy and dense wood, which makes it difficult to work with. It has a high bending and compressive strength, only a low deformability can be seen. Since it can be used in many different ways, for example in shipbuilding, as a billiard stick or as a fishing rod.

Macassar Ebony (Diospyros celebica)
The Makassar ebony is one of the most valuable fine veneers. Because of this, it is used for the production of plywood
used as knife for veneers. The extremely attractive and decorative wood with its striped appearance belongs to the colored ebony, but is much rarer and is one of the most expensive woods in the trade.

Mopane (Colophospermum mopane)
Mopane wood is a rather rare wood. Traditionally, mopane wood is used for building houses and for Kraals fences and the branches are chewed as a "toothbrush". The heartwood is dark brown to reddish brown. It is one of the heaviest woods of 1300 kg / m³ in southern Africa and is hard to work due to its hardness. In recent times, Mopane wood has become increasingly popular as a substitute wood for grenadilla (Dalbergia melanoxylon) in woodwind instrument making, as it is
how it is very hard and dense and also has similar beneficial sound properties.

Rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia)
The term rosewood probably comes from the Spanish expression palo santo, which literally means something like "holy stake, holy wood". The hard heartwood is dark purple to purple with dark veins. Therefore, it is preferably used for veneers, knife booklets and in the turnery. But it is also THE wood of the instrument makers (fingerboards, frames).

Plum wood (Prunus domestica)
Charlemagne is said to have been responsible for the fact that plums and plums were systematically cultivated in Central Europe.
The wood of plum trees is hard, dense and fine-pored with a kiln density of 750 kg / m³. The heartwood shows red and violet tones. Due to the small trunk diameter of the trees, the wood is mainly used for carpentry, carving and turning for smaller work pieces, musical instruments and decorative elements, less often than veneer or furniture wood.


Wenge (Millettia laurentii)
Wenge has been a classic of furniture and veneer for years. It has a distinctive structure with great decorative
Pores. The color is dark brown to black, depending on the cutting direction. Wenge is very heavy approx. 1000 kg / m³.
It is easy to work with, but tends to split if the fibers run irregularly.

Wild olive (Olea europaea)
The wild olive has a widely spaced, unrelated natural occurrence: Mediterranean, Middle East and South Africa. It is one of the oldest cultivated plants. The wood is certainly one of the most beautiful woods ever and
is characterized by great diversity. The heartwood is yellow-gray to salmon-colored, often interwoven with olive-brown dark stripes. The
Lumber is harvested from old olive trees that are no longer load-bearing and has particularly beautiful structures. Olive trees
grow particularly slowly. Therefore, their wood is particularly hard and dense. However, it is only very limited in
reasonably error-free quantities available.

Precious resin (polyethylene)
Resin is a high-quality plastic, the longevity of which guarantees high value retention. The manufacture of the
Resin handles are made in coordinated, multi-part steps. Solid round bars are first turned into
Basic shapes worked out individually. The blanks are then used in so-called “scrubbing drums”
deburred and pre-polished using special polishing granules. Finally, each individual handle is carefully polished and hand
maintains its haptic quality and special shine.










Instructions for whipping foam, for cleaning and maintenance

Tip 1: whip the foam    
Soak the brush head thoroughly in warm water (max. 45°C - 113°F), it should be dripping wet. Avoid soaking the brush for a long time before lathering it because
a) Unnecessary,
b) The already fine badger hair becomes even softer and with it its elasticity loses, and the brush head gapes when lathering and the lather goes deep into the brush head, is massaged in, and the result is * lime soap.
c) By the swelling behaviour of the thousands of hairs in the knot the Brush head can be blown up horizontally.

Lather up the shaving soap with circular movements of the shaving brush, making sure that the shaving foam is only absorbed in the upper area of the brush head. To apply the shaving foam, guide the brush in circular and stroking movements over the stubble.

So-called instructions are circulating on the Internet in which the brush is "loaded" with foam, i.e. is completely penetrated with soap foam.
By pressing hard while lathering, an attempt is made to apply the soap foam to the skin of the face with the effect that only a small part of the soap foam comes into the face and a large part of the foam remaining in the lower area of the brush head is literally massaged into the brush head.

The consequences:
The deeply massaged soap foam can hardly be washed out and, in a relatively short time * lime soap (blooming of salt crystals) forms, with the result that the brush head is blown off horizontally at the end of the hair band.
This process is also accelerated if the brush head is used to foam with relatively little water when lathering; the soap adheres more strongly to the hair and is difficult to rinse out again.
The photo clearly shows the soap residue that has penetrated into the roots, with the *lime soap (white layer) formed at the end and the brush head that has flaked off at the ends of the hair.

In principle, any shaving brush, provided there is sufficient hair in the knot, can be used to whip foam. But the perfect foam does not always succeed immediately;
Here you have to try with which soap and with how much water in the brush the creamiest foam can be whipped. Wet shaving takes time and care.

Tip 2: rinse
After each shave, rinse the shaving foam thoroughly under warm running water (max. 45°C - 113°F). The direction of flow of the water should always aim from the handle to the tips so that the soap scum is rinsed out of the knot in the direction of the tips.
The more expensive and more tightly the shaving brush is bound, the more thoroughly the cleaning has to be done.

Tip 3: drying
The shaving brush head should dry completely before the next use. We therefore recommend a second shaving brush for alternating use.

Tip 4: storage
The inclined storage in the stainless steel shaving brush holder (RS 18-10.02) developed by us accelerates the air circulation and thus the rapid removal of moisture from the brush head.

Tip 5: taking care of the brush head
We recommend monthly cleaning with a mild shampoo.

Tip 6: Care of the brush handle
Rub handles made of natural materials such as precious wood or horn dry after each use. Matt and gray surfaces are freshened up with an acid-free wood oil.

If the cleaning is insufficient, foam and soap residues remain in the brush head. This leads to white deposits (* lime soaps). Depending on the intensity, it leads to hair breakage / hair loss and the bursting of the brush head.

* Lime soaps are deposits caused by the compound of the Lime dissolved in water is created with soaps




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